what color wire on a 1995 chevy silverato comes from the brake light switch to the brake light bulb
Chosen Solution
Before clipping any wires, keep in listen that virtually older model year trucks have the same bulb filament used for both the brake function and the turn indicator role. For that to work, the brake wire runs to the turn indicator, so that when you turn on the flashing turn bespeak, information technology switches out the brake calorie-free signal for that side so that the two signals don't collide. So don't just check the brake light. Also cheque the turn signals. In my case, the brake lights didn't piece of work just the turn signals did, so that told me the wiring to the bulbs was OK and the wiring running in the frame was OK and the bulb contacts were OK. Then I presume I need to check the brake light switch, the fuse, and for a truck, any wiring washed for the trailer hitch to make certain information technology is OK.
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Score 22
I had the same problem on my 91 K1500. The most common reason rear lights of whatever kind will neglect is rotted wires. They run through wire shroud from front end to back along the inside of the frame to the left tail light. Running this way leaves them exposed to the elements.
Check along the run for rotted, broken or degraded wire. Most spots would exist at anchor points, junctions, etc. If you do find a faulty wire, just run a new one from the engine bay to the back and splice information technology in. Its a cheap fix and takes WAY less time.
If it was me i would clip the wire at the tail lite harness, well-nigh 4 inches back, then move to the engine bay and look for the aforementioned wire there. it will most probable be abreast your brake fluid assembly, in a cluster, inbound the firewall. Notice the wire and clip it about iv inches dorsum too. Solder and shrink tube the new wire to these pigtails and give it a test.
If you are unsure of the wire colour associated with brake light function, you can access wiring diagrams online, but exist warned, chev/gm have been known to change color codes from time to fourth dimension.
It could as well be a relay, the box is located in the engine bay and the relay will exist marked, only its unlikely to be the problem.
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Score 9
In that location is a switch. I think on near C/K 1500/2500 it is on the brake pedal arm or the arm hits it. It is $5-$x; you might take ALL your truck data to the auto parts store, purchase a new switch, then look for the same thing around the brake arm or under the hood.
There's a fuse. Find the fusebox and look for "restriction". The Owner'south Manual may take clues.
Fuses usually accident for a reason. Some bulb-faults can blow a fuse. Change the restriction lamp bulbs; on a vehicle this old it is time to do that. Open tailgate, at that place'south 2 (rusted) Phillips screws into the taillight lens. Unscrew, the lens un-hooks on the other side. Apartment rubbery thing with connector and 3 lumps. Unhook connector latch and carefully pull out. Use one/4 nutdriver to remove two screws in rubbery thing. Three bulbs: they just pull out merely won't want to come easy. IIRC bottom is backup and the meridian ane is brake.
Await at the wires, because if it is not switch and not a bulb-fault, then as TBAS says it is probably wires, pinched or cleaved, from tail to switch to fusebox.
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Score vii
Plow your flashers on to check the bulbs .Checks good get to your brake light switch mounted on upper role of the brake pedal with a uncomplicated test light you should accept hot (exam light on) when the restriction pedal is depressed if not and the ong wire is hot (15 amp fuse in the fuse panel nether dash) says End past it you need to replace the brake light switch. Likewise when you supercede the battery go the highest cranking amp ane that Will fit.
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Score 7
Rep: 37
i
I had the same problem with my stepside cleaned the connections at the lite and they went to working
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Score 3
Rep: 37
ii
like others were saying its a brake switch at the elevation of the restriction pedal. simply did mine and it was a pain just it solved the problem instantly. simply need to remove a clip and lift up on the plastic piece to remove it from the brake cable, and so disconnect the wiring harness and popular in the new one, atacth the clip and yous are adept to go.
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Score three
I take a 1994 GMC Sierra C1500 2WD with four.3l w/automatic. It was a fleet vehicle. Plain Jane take for High Output Heater, Limited Sideslip Diff and Engine Block Heater. Brake lights were working intermittently. Would come on when pedal every bit get-go depressed then go out later pedal traveled down a bit. I put in a new switch and all was well for 3 months. So the problem came back once more. I was set up to put a new switch in again when I took a shut look at the wire connector on the harness. The cease yellow lead was melted in the connector and the female plug for this wire was black. I got a boneyard replacement and wired it in. Problem solved.
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Score 3
Been reading about all your various symptoms. I take been fighting a taillight consequence for two days. Merely left plough worked -- No brake lights -- no running rear lights -- no flashers -- no backup lights. But driver side turn sig DID work. Inverse all bulbs (were Only 25 yrs former) -- Ck'd bulb sockets (all ok) Ck'd fuses and pedal switch - both ok. Charted all progressive actions. Nada fabricated sense.
And then idea back on what I might take caused when I took the bed off to replace a brake line in Sept. -- traced all movements I might have made that might've Acquired the taillight issues. Looked the wire connections over and came to a footing at the frame near the trailer hitch pb. Took it loose - did a fair job cleaning the frame surface rust and reconnected it. Thought I had done a thourough job but still no change. Went dorsum to that ground again -- took it loose -- stripped the wire casing back a couple inches and BINGO!!!!!!!! The wire was rotten ------------ Stripped the wire casing back real skilful
and got to good clean united nations-rotten wire -- took a FILE to the frame rail rust 'till I institute bare metal re-attached the ground VERY WELL ------------no more taillight problems. So if things go just also wierd - ck your grounds!
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Score 3
Information technology is probably your fuse relay swithch underneath the hood toward the driver side. Pull the plastic cap off the fuse chassis and you'll see a square relay fuse switch and supervene upon information technology for the brakes. It'southward only $xiii bucks and is the predominant issue with 1997 Chevy Trucks and the brakes not working especially if you reverse and blinker lights do work.
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Score 3
Its the taillight excursion lath or a cleaved wire. If you look on here i asked same question and i posted up what the reason for my issue concluded upwardly existence. Moat probable a bad or broken basis, circuit board that is on the back of the taillight or a broken wire. To figure information technology out get a test light make clean a piece of metal connect teat low-cal ground, then unplug taillight and stick trat low-cal probe into i slot at a time meet what works and what doesnt and write information technology down. Then get to the other taillight do samething.
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Score 3
Either y'all have a broken wire, or blown fuse or you have a messed up blinker switch. The way those taillights work theres a white wire under dash on the column that white wire is for brake light. So the way the brake lights piece of work they go through a relay and through blinker switch. So you could accept a blown relay i would start there. 1 relay is on the back of the fuse panel, the other is side by side brake pedal on that console to the left of the brake pedal. Try replacing those, and if that doesnt work await for broken wires under dash, and check all the fuses, supervene upon blinker switch, and hazard switch. If all that doesnt fix it then you lot must accept broken wires or bad grounds
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Score i
Yous may need new circuit boards. If y'all pull the brake light out an it is burnt that is why. Bank check the fuse before.
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Score 0
White wire off the brake switch and also with the cluster of wires front forepart to back is the brake wire that turns on the brake lights i just figured it out on my 92 chevy k1500 because i have the same event and i need a inspection sticker
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Bank check your grounds?
I accept brake lights and turn signals when I pulled my "tail light/ courtesy marking low-cal" fuse
But when I put the fuse dorsum in I have no turn signals and my brake lights don't work.
So I guess information technology could be any ground for the running lights could be shorting something out?
Peradventure the circuitboards to the brakelights?
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Score 0
Are the bulbs good or blown. Information technology could be a diddled fuse or a problem like mine had which is the passenger tail light wire was pinched/smashed.
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Score 0
Awesome!!!! it worked for me on a 1997 k2500. Cables were pulled as well tight. One time i combed back the cables the restriction light started to work.
Thanks
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Hello fellas and thank you for your forum. I came to this site when I had the same issue with no brake lights after changing a booster. After many days probably a total calendar week of taking it autonomously put it back together I figured out the problem was the hole at the end of the shaft that slides onto the brake pedal with the switch is therefore I drilled the pigsty of slightly larger and that fix my problem I went to the auto parts store and look up the parts numbers and they are definitely dissimilar numbers
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Accept you lot checked bulbs? I'v got everything working now from replacing bulbs except opposite lights are withal out
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I had this same trouble. When I bought it from the first owner he told me someone tried to steal the car and hot wire information technology. When they were in the process of doing then they bankrupt the hazard low-cal switch on the steering wheel. I couldnt figure out why my light didn't work. After a lot of trial and error and research I pulled a used switch from choice due north pull and swapped it out. Problem solved. I'm a carpenter and not a mechanic and some how figures information technology out on my own. Google and YouTube can be very helpful sometimes.
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Score 0
1993 K3500, aforementioned problem...no brake lights but had all other lights. I found the white wire coming from the turn betoken harness broke downwards at the apartment connector at the bottom of the steering cavalcade. r2'd the harness and now I have brake lights!!!
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I had the aforementioned break light trouble. Later on irresolute pedal switch and tracing all wires making certain of no bad wires or loose grounds still no interruption lights,accidentally found out the trouble was "MY BULBS WERE NOT MAKING SOLID CONNECTION Inside THE SOCKET" cleaned all the bulb receiving sockets with a light solvent and used a straight pin to slightly pry my seedling leads out just a very little. Problem solved!!
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Score 0
In my 1994 Chevy s10 truck my restriction lights wont plow off I but replaced the boo switch earlier I did that they didnt want to turn on simply ya what should I practice?
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Chased no break lights merely high mountain was working forth with all other lights worked fine turned out to be bad conection on combination switch plug
Im aback to say information technology took v hrs and im not a rookie i did unplugged and check previously but information technology was the conector retainer wasnt alowing enough concur for proper connectedness
1995 chevy suburban k1500 k398miles
(Really i think its time to take her to a gambler500
Just shes never left me stranded other than #10boltssuck)
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Score 0
I have no brake lights, reverse lights or running lights on my blazer. I've replaced fuse, checked bulbs, replaced brake light switch, checked wiring nether dash and along frame rails with no results! I did nonetheless prepare the gas gauge.
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Did you cheque the footing at taillight assembly behind the bulb housing for corrosion/contact employ for ground volition doit. Sometimes it'due south stupid simple things you lot wouldn't normally think of
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I have a 1993 Chevy k1500 I take no running lights in the rear the brake low-cal works and the plow signal works to only no running lite what could be the trouble
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Was but helping my Begetter-in-police force work on his '92 C1500. Had no brake lights and hazards were not working. The "STOP" fuse was blowing - sometimes afterwards the brake was activated, and sometimes equally soon every bit plugging in a new fuse. In trying to remove the fuse panel to check on wiring connections on the back nosotros discovered that the hazard flasher (makes the ticking dissonance when the hazards are on) was broken and shorted out. Nosotros took the flasher out and the brake lights piece of work great. Put the flasher back in and the hazards came on immediately just stayed on. The articulate instance effectually the flasher had cleaved and the copper was resting on some other ground point. I call back it shorted the circuitry inside. So, off to the store to get a flasher. Glad we didn't tear all the wiring out of the truck like we talked about doing.
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I approximate I'chiliad luckier than virtually…got more than than one Chevy…..I have a c3500 with restriction calorie-free problems…I tried the lights on some other vehicle and they are fine…new brake switch…fuses are fine….gotta exist a basis wire…irresolute the restriction switch is a pain when I had to drop the steering bike…figure I might as well change the lights on the cab…was shocked when I found no bulbs in it to start
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I changed my brake light switch and my brake lights don't work i can actuate the brake light switch past pressing the piddling tab but its all together it dont work all my other lights piece of work its a 1997 chevy suburban
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I'm not quite done yet I didn't have any lights no I only got brake lights to prepare yet. I got and so working under the nuance when hit the pedal coming out of the switch I'm thinking it's probably the relay it doesn't click when power is applied to it either that or it's in the column in the single low-cal switch, just anyway don't forget the basis underneath the dash right behind where the OBD1 connector is that fixed near of my bug right there information technology didnt expect bad a little bit of blue between the dash in the connector could be seen when I took it apart simply by looking I would have thought it was a good connection
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Score 0
I have a 1988 chevrolet c1500, my dash lights won't piece of work, speed therm won't piece of work, more than my unmarried, are brake lights, my caput light's work, and my internal work as well,what practise I demand to do?
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Source: https://www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/32226/Why+dont+my+brake+lights+work
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